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Modelling wave run-up and sediment transport

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If you have a question about this talk, please contact Catherine Pearson.

The advance and retreat of water on a beachface as a wave arrives is a very familiar fluid-dynamical phenomenon. From a modelling point of view, it is a tough problem because of the presence of a free surface with a moving contact line between the water and the beachface. From a practical point of view, it has important applications including coastal morphodynamics and tsunami hazard assessment.

This talk will describe modelling work based on the shallow-water equations, looking at both the hydrodynamics of wave run-up and the transport of sediment under this motion. I will try to persuade the audience that there are still significant gaps in our understanding, and will speculate a little about what can be done about some of them.

This talk is part of the BPI Seminar Series series.

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