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A wave-by-wave study of particle dynamics in the surf zone

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HYD2 - Dispersive hydrodynamics: mathematics, simulation and experiments, with applications in nonlinear waves

We report on a measurement campaign conducted at a beach on the island of Sylt, located off the German North Sea Coast with the goal of understanding particle dynamics in individual waves. Using oranges as particle tracers in connection with a two-camera stereo imaging system, we were able to track individual tracers as they cycle through the waves approaching the beach. Supporting measurements were provided using wave staffs, pressure gauges, and drones.The measurements show strong variation in mean-water level between consecutive waves due to the infragravity wave signal. It is shown that elevated or depressed local mean water level correlates with amplified or reversed Stokes drift.

This talk is part of the Isaac Newton Institute Seminar Series series.

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