Abstract

Predicting beach shoreline changes remains a challenge given the complexity of the processes affecting sediment transport at a wide range of temporal and spatial scales. Here, two different approaches are taken to improve our understanding of sandy beach shoreline changes: (1) a data-based approach with the development of an empirical shoreline change model based on equilibrium beach profile concepts, and (2) a physical modeling approach by measuring the profile changes during storms in a series of wave flume experiments. The equilibrium model was developed with data from Torrey Pines Beach, CA, USA and has been applied at several different sites, including a macrotidal site where the effects of changing water levels are taken into account. In the second part of the talk, results from a series of wave flume experiments are presented to show the efficiency of submerged structures in reducing coastal shoreline erosion, based on an equilibrium profile approach.