Abstract

Results of recent and ongoing sets of experiments on nonlinear surface waves at finite depth are presented. We are particularly investigating the properties of the maximum elevation and wave-induced velocity as well as particle drift. While waves without a cover are realistic for ocean surface waves, the effect of a cover is important for waves interacting with an ice sheet. Experiments are connected to available measurements at moderately shallow reefs or shallow seas where in the latter case wind-driven waves are observed, obtaining a strong limiting effect by wave breaking, on the amplitude. The vertically integrated particle drift is zero. The particle drift is strongly enhanced below the wave surface and above the bottom, due to the streaming effects, where also the shear is enhanced, with implications to a magnified Stokes drift. The particle drift velocity is zero at two vertical positions. Below a cover (ice) the drift shear becomes negative. The investigations are motivated by requests from the offshore wind industry as well as Polar research.